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	<title>Comments on: How to Photograph the Aurora Borealis - Northern lights</title>
	<link>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights</link>
	<description>Photo blog featuring outdoor, travel and nature photos.</description>
	<pubDate>Fri, 25 Jul 2008 00:28:29 +0000</pubDate>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=2.2.1</generator>

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		<title>By: Frances</title>
		<link>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-63030</link>
		<author>Frances</author>
		<pubDate>Fri, 25 Jul 2008 00:11:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-63030</guid>
		<description>Thanks for your reply, do I understand you correctly ? you use the mirror up, feature to take the picture, but I thought that when you press the shutter down with the mode dial set to MUP,then ,you have to push the shutter button down again to take the picture, so how would that be like a time exposure ? Would that not be just like taking a picture the regular way, except that the mirror comes down after the picure is taken ? Sorry to be so dumb, but I thought that you had a method to take a time exposure without a remote control.  I have the remote control for the D70, but I also own a D300, and don't have a remote for it. Last time I used the remote with the D70  for fireworks I found that it would not go off when I pressed it , so I ended up missing some of the fireworks, it seemed to close the shutter OK, but would not always open it right when I pressed the remote, thought the battery was weak so I bought a new one, and still had the problem, had the new battery checked, and it is ok, so I sure would like to have another way to take a time exposure. Hope you understand all that, I almost don't !</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for your reply, do I understand you correctly ? you use the mirror up, feature to take the picture, but I thought that when you press the shutter down with the mode dial set to MUP,then ,you have to push the shutter button down again to take the picture, so how would that be like a time exposure ? Would that not be just like taking a picture the regular way, except that the mirror comes down after the picure is taken ? Sorry to be so dumb, but I thought that you had a method to take a time exposure without a remote control.  I have the remote control for the D70, but I also own a D300, and don&#8217;t have a remote for it. Last time I used the remote with the D70  for fireworks I found that it would not go off when I pressed it , so I ended up missing some of the fireworks, it seemed to close the shutter OK, but would not always open it right when I pressed the remote, thought the battery was weak so I bought a new one, and still had the problem, had the new battery checked, and it is ok, so I sure would like to have another way to take a time exposure. Hope you understand all that, I almost don&#8217;t !</p>
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		<title>By: Ron</title>
		<link>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-63022</link>
		<author>Ron</author>
		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Jul 2008 22:10:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-63022</guid>
		<description>Hi Frances,

Thanks - I have been very blessed to have been able to travel to so many wonderful places.  I really love BC!

The idea behind using the two second timer is it reduces the camera shake created when you hit the shutter button.  You are accomplishing the same thing with your remote, but it is a good way to fire the camera if you don't have a remote.  It is great for landscapes, but doesn't work for wildlife where timing is critical.

Another way to reduce camera shake is by locking up the mirror before you take a picture.  It is probably a minor thing, but the mirror can cause the camera to shake a little bit.  Not all cameras have mirror lockup, and the way you set it is different with each camera, so you would need to check your manual for the one.  

I hope that helps!

Ron</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Frances,</p>
<p>Thanks - I have been very blessed to have been able to travel to so many wonderful places.  I really love BC!</p>
<p>The idea behind using the two second timer is it reduces the camera shake created when you hit the shutter button.  You are accomplishing the same thing with your remote, but it is a good way to fire the camera if you don&#8217;t have a remote.  It is great for landscapes, but doesn&#8217;t work for wildlife where timing is critical.</p>
<p>Another way to reduce camera shake is by locking up the mirror before you take a picture.  It is probably a minor thing, but the mirror can cause the camera to shake a little bit.  Not all cameras have mirror lockup, and the way you set it is different with each camera, so you would need to check your manual for the one.  </p>
<p>I hope that helps!</p>
<p>Ron</p>
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		<title>By: Frances</title>
		<link>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-62944</link>
		<author>Frances</author>
		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Jul 2008 05:10:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-62944</guid>
		<description>Thanks for your quick reply ! I don't understand about the mirror lock up, and the 2 second delay, how do you do that ? Sorry that I am not more experienced, so you will have to explain it to me, sounds like a great idea ! I have only used the mirror lock up to try to clean my sensor, and didn't know that I could do a time exposure using it, sure would like to know how you do that ! thanks,  I looked at your gallery, and I am so impressed, you have traveled , and gone to all my favorite places ! what a treat to see all those lovely images ! I live in BC myself, and Utah is one of my favorites ! I am not schooled in Photography so I kind of fake it, but I really love it !</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for your quick reply ! I don&#8217;t understand about the mirror lock up, and the 2 second delay, how do you do that ? Sorry that I am not more experienced, so you will have to explain it to me, sounds like a great idea ! I have only used the mirror lock up to try to clean my sensor, and didn&#8217;t know that I could do a time exposure using it, sure would like to know how you do that ! thanks,  I looked at your gallery, and I am so impressed, you have traveled , and gone to all my favorite places ! what a treat to see all those lovely images ! I live in BC myself, and Utah is one of my favorites ! I am not schooled in Photography so I kind of fake it, but I really love it !</p>
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		<title>By: Ron</title>
		<link>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-62943</link>
		<author>Ron</author>
		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Jul 2008 04:56:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-62943</guid>
		<description>Hi Frances,

Thanks and you are welcome!

That is a tough one.  The faster lens is better, but Northern Light can often occupy a big portion of the sky, so then a wider angle would be better.  I would use take both.  If the lights are in a tight band and really moving, use your fast lens.  If they are a big arc and not moving much, then use your wider angle lens.  In between, then it is a compromise - you might try them both if you have the time.

I use the two second timer with mirror lockup instead of the remote control.  With the remote control, you don't need to use the two second delay.

Ron</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Frances,</p>
<p>Thanks and you are welcome!</p>
<p>That is a tough one.  The faster lens is better, but Northern Light can often occupy a big portion of the sky, so then a wider angle would be better.  I would use take both.  If the lights are in a tight band and really moving, use your fast lens.  If they are a big arc and not moving much, then use your wider angle lens.  In between, then it is a compromise - you might try them both if you have the time.</p>
<p>I use the two second timer with mirror lockup instead of the remote control.  With the remote control, you don&#8217;t need to use the two second delay.</p>
<p>Ron</p>
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		<title>By: Frances</title>
		<link>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-62895</link>
		<author>Frances</author>
		<pubDate>Wed, 23 Jul 2008 20:46:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-62895</guid>
		<description>Thanks sooo much for your info ! I have a 35-80 (2.8) Nikon Lense on a D70 Nikon SLR, , and a 18-35 3.5/4.5 Nikon lens, which would be better to use ? You say pick the best, so that would be the 2.8, but it is only a 35, so should I use the 18-35 even though it is 3.5/4.5 ? Also, I have a remote control for the D70, but it seems to fire some of the time only, what do you mean when you say you use your 2 sec timer ? I understand that would simply wait 2 secs before firing ,but how would you get a long exposure with that ? I find your shots incredibly beautiful, and thank you for sharing your knowledge so generously ! sincerely, Frances</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks sooo much for your info ! I have a 35-80 (2.8) Nikon Lense on a D70 Nikon SLR, , and a 18-35 3.5/4.5 Nikon lens, which would be better to use ? You say pick the best, so that would be the 2.8, but it is only a 35, so should I use the 18-35 even though it is 3.5/4.5 ? Also, I have a remote control for the D70, but it seems to fire some of the time only, what do you mean when you say you use your 2 sec timer ? I understand that would simply wait 2 secs before firing ,but how would you get a long exposure with that ? I find your shots incredibly beautiful, and thank you for sharing your knowledge so generously ! sincerely, Frances</p>
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		<title>By: Ron</title>
		<link>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-53108</link>
		<author>Ron</author>
		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Apr 2008 19:54:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-53108</guid>
		<description>Hi Dave,

I want to make sure the mountain of data isn't too far too the right or left - especially right with northern lights - I don't want the lights over exposed.  

Because of the black night sky, I don't mind if a good portion of the data is up against the left side of the graph, it should be since the night sky is largely black.  But there will usually be a second hump of data sorta speak - this is the data for the actual lights, and they should be near the middle.

Hope that makes sense.

Ron</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Dave,</p>
<p>I want to make sure the mountain of data isn&#8217;t too far too the right or left - especially right with northern lights - I don&#8217;t want the lights over exposed.  </p>
<p>Because of the black night sky, I don&#8217;t mind if a good portion of the data is up against the left side of the graph, it should be since the night sky is largely black.  But there will usually be a second hump of data sorta speak - this is the data for the actual lights, and they should be near the middle.</p>
<p>Hope that makes sense.</p>
<p>Ron</p>
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		<title>By: Dave</title>
		<link>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-53096</link>
		<author>Dave</author>
		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Apr 2008 18:32:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-53096</guid>
		<description>Hi Ron

You mention, you rely on your histogram.  In your experience, what particular items are you looking for in your histogram?

Thanks

Dave</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Ron</p>
<p>You mention, you rely on your histogram.  In your experience, what particular items are you looking for in your histogram?</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
<p>Dave</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Ron</title>
		<link>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-44634</link>
		<author>Ron</author>
		<pubDate>Sat, 19 Jan 2008 18:23:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-44634</guid>
		<description>Thanks Einat,

I set the white balance to auto - that seems to work well.

Ron</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks Einat,</p>
<p>I set the white balance to auto - that seems to work well.</p>
<p>Ron</p>
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		<title>By: Einat</title>
		<link>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-44626</link>
		<author>Einat</author>
		<pubDate>Sat, 19 Jan 2008 15:00:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-44626</guid>
		<description>Your article is very helpful. Can you advise on which WB to set?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Your article is very helpful. Can you advise on which WB to set?</p>
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		<title>By: Ron</title>
		<link>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-42805</link>
		<author>Ron</author>
		<pubDate>Mon, 31 Dec 2007 17:14:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-42805</guid>
		<description>Hi Gilli,

I would start wide open with a 30 second exposure with at iso 400, and then adjust from there.  It hasn't been a very good year for Northern Lights, hopefully you will get lucky!

Good luck,

Ron</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Gilli,</p>
<p>I would start wide open with a 30 second exposure with at iso 400, and then adjust from there.  It hasn&#8217;t been a very good year for Northern Lights, hopefully you will get lucky!</p>
<p>Good luck,</p>
<p>Ron</p>
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		<title>By: Gilli</title>
		<link>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-42775</link>
		<author>Gilli</author>
		<pubDate>Mon, 31 Dec 2007 10:31:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-42775</guid>
		<description>Thanks for the advice

I only  have  a Nikon 18-70mm lens f3.5-4.5
 
and a sigma wide angle lens 10-20mm f4-5.6

tripod and cable release

I leave on tuesday for iceland, what ISO and exposure times should I start with for these options?

many thanks g</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for the advice</p>
<p>I only  have  a Nikon 18-70mm lens f3.5-4.5</p>
<p>and a sigma wide angle lens 10-20mm f4-5.6</p>
<p>tripod and cable release</p>
<p>I leave on tuesday for iceland, what ISO and exposure times should I start with for these options?</p>
<p>many thanks g</p>
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		<title>By: Ron</title>
		<link>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-4463</link>
		<author>Ron</author>
		<pubDate>Thu, 01 Feb 2007 04:48:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-4463</guid>
		<description>Perfect, have fun!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Perfect, have fun!</p>
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		<title>By: Yvonne</title>
		<link>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-4453</link>
		<author>Yvonne</author>
		<pubDate>Thu, 01 Feb 2007 00:46:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-4453</guid>
		<description>Thanks Ron.  I've done a lot of reading and just invested in a 14-54mm, f2.8-3.5 lens to replace my 14-45mm, f3.5-5.6.  I should be in good shape, especially since I have the ability to set exposure times and shoot in "RAW" format.

Yvone</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks Ron.  I&#8217;ve done a lot of reading and just invested in a 14-54mm, f2.8-3.5 lens to replace my 14-45mm, f3.5-5.6.  I should be in good shape, especially since I have the ability to set exposure times and shoot in &#8220;RAW&#8221; format.</p>
<p>Yvone</p>
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		<title>By: Ron</title>
		<link>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-3959</link>
		<author>Ron</author>
		<pubDate>Wed, 24 Jan 2007 03:34:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-3959</guid>
		<description>Hi Yvonne,

I really can't help you with that particular camera, your manual will be the best help.  Good luck!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Yvonne,</p>
<p>I really can&#8217;t help you with that particular camera, your manual will be the best help.  Good luck!</p>
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		<title>By: Yvonne Bennett</title>
		<link>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-3853</link>
		<author>Yvonne Bennett</author>
		<pubDate>Sun, 21 Jan 2007 23:48:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-3853</guid>
		<description>I found your website and help on dslr photography of the northern lights.  I'll be shooting in March using an Olympus EVolt 500.  While I've used the camera some, never for night photography.  Anything special you can advise??

Thanks,
Yvonne</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I found your website and help on dslr photography of the northern lights.  I&#8217;ll be shooting in March using an Olympus EVolt 500.  While I&#8217;ve used the camera some, never for night photography.  Anything special you can advise??</p>
<p>Thanks,<br />
Yvonne</p>
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		<title>By: Ken</title>
		<link>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-3603</link>
		<author>Ken</author>
		<pubDate>Wed, 17 Jan 2007 23:22:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-3603</guid>
		<description>Star: when your camera lists shutter speeds, the fractions are all less than a second, and when it shows shutter speeds with " next to it, that's in seconds. I'd advise against using bulb or "b" mode, unless you have a cable release or wireless remote (Nikons wireless remote will allow you to open the shutter with one press and close it with the second) trying to not jiggle the camera while holding the shutter for 10-20 seconds is basically impossible.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Star: when your camera lists shutter speeds, the fractions are all less than a second, and when it shows shutter speeds with &#8221; next to it, that&#8217;s in seconds. I&#8217;d advise against using bulb or &#8220;b&#8221; mode, unless you have a cable release or wireless remote (Nikons wireless remote will allow you to open the shutter with one press and close it with the second) trying to not jiggle the camera while holding the shutter for 10-20 seconds is basically impossible.</p>
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		<title>By: Ron</title>
		<link>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-3574</link>
		<author>Ron</author>
		<pubDate>Wed, 17 Jan 2007 07:10:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-3574</guid>
		<description>Hi Star,

Yeah, usually your shutter speed is a fraction of a second - but for night shots, it needs to be many seconds.  Your camera may not have those setting, but it might have a B setting.  The B setting allows you to hold the shutter for as long as you have your finger on it.  Check your manual out to see if you have a B shutter speed.  Good luck!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Star,</p>
<p>Yeah, usually your shutter speed is a fraction of a second - but for night shots, it needs to be many seconds.  Your camera may not have those setting, but it might have a B setting.  The B setting allows you to hold the shutter for as long as you have your finger on it.  Check your manual out to see if you have a B shutter speed.  Good luck!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: Star</title>
		<link>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-3562</link>
		<author>Star</author>
		<pubDate>Tue, 16 Jan 2007 19:25:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-3562</guid>
		<description>This is our last winter here in AK and I am happy to have found your information page. I have yet to take any photos. I have a Kodak Easy Share z760 digital camera. I have been reading the manual and have found all the settings you speak of. However, you list shutter speed in seconds and my camera represents it in  a fraction or as a ". Could you help me out? I have been googling but have not been able to answer my questions there. 
Thanks so much!
Star</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This is our last winter here in AK and I am happy to have found your information page. I have yet to take any photos. I have a Kodak Easy Share z760 digital camera. I have been reading the manual and have found all the settings you speak of. However, you list shutter speed in seconds and my camera represents it in  a fraction or as a &#8220;. Could you help me out? I have been googling but have not been able to answer my questions there.<br />
Thanks so much!<br />
Star</p>
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		<title>By: Mark</title>
		<link>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-1202</link>
		<author>Mark</author>
		<pubDate>Thu, 21 Dec 2006 02:15:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.my-photo-blog.com/how-to-photograph-the-aurora-borealis-northern-lights#comment-1202</guid>
		<description>Great tips Ron, I will definitely keep these handy for the next rare time we have the aurora here in SE Michigan.  Thanks.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Great tips Ron, I will definitely keep these handy for the next rare time we have the aurora here in SE Michigan.  Thanks.</p>
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